Wave family climatology of the U.S. East and Gulf Coasts

The dynamic complexity of the sea surface, characterized by the simultaneous presence of multiple wave systems, necessitates a detailed analysis beyond the scope of traditional integrated bulk wave parameters, which, in the case of multimodal seas, can provide inaccurate information. This research leverages spectral techniques to identify wave system populations - referred to as wave families - in order to investigate wave climatology along the U.S. East and Gulf coasts. Utilizing in-situ directional spectral buoy measurements from NOAA's National Data Buoy Center, the frequency-direction wave spectra are constructed using the maximum entropy method. The wave spectra are then partitioned into wave systems using the watershed algorithm, enabling the generation of the occurrence distribution of the spectral partitions’ peak energy density. The occurrence distribution at each buoy location is further partitioned to identify predominant wave families, each one with unique meteorological and geographical origins. Our analysis presents notable spatiotemporal variability in wave family characteristics, such as wave family significant wave height, wave period, and directional range, across different buoy locations and seasons, thus accentuating the complexity of wind-generated waves and their potential implications on coastal dynamics.